In the bottle: Toji Junpei is initially fairly neutral on the nose right after open the bottle; however, this opens up beautifully to reveal a soft, subtle sweet potato character that reminds me of lifting the lid on a pot of steamed sweet potatoes just as they finish cooking, very nice. After giving this a bit more time and a little swirling, there are some soft earthy undertones of wet hay and damp clay that rise to the surface adding welcome depth and complexity to the overall experience. 

On the rocks: The first sip for me was very much a “wow” moment of shochu amazingness. Toji Junpei delivers a punchy, vibrant sweet potato note that spreads evenly with a perfect level of intensity, never tipping to far one way or another. As the ice melts and this opens up, it quickly transitions into a gorgeous, rounded sweetness layered with candied vanilla and delicate custard notes, not exactly dessert level but enough to get your attention. As the ice melts further Toji Junpei mellows a bit too much and front-end intensity is washed out a bit too much, best to enjoy this before that happens ​

Straight: Toji Junpei is beautifully balanced when enjoyed neat in the glass, there is a bright, bold burst of sweet potato that really drives the entire experience. After you adjust to that initial intensity you can finally appreciate a big wash of vanilla and custard-like sweetness takes over, before fading into a dark chocolatey finish. That cacao note is gently bitter, richly chocolatey, and perfectly supported by the lingering sweet potoat tones. Overall, this stands out as one of the most enjoyable bottles I’ve opened this year.